As I went through the pre-season preparation work I fixed a few maintenance issues that needed to be addressed.  Some of the items were noted during the survey, others were new discoveries.

1. Sunpad actuator motor inoperative
   

1. Bilge blowers not working
   

1. Fresh water tank leaking
   

1. Coolant leak on Port engine
   

1. Swivel/slide seat lever inoperable
   

1. Starboard Trim Sender Inoperable
   

1. Mooring cover snaps were broken/missing
   

The sunpad and the bilge blower issues turned out to be failed relays.  Apparently that is a new thing with boats is that not only are there switches to turn things on/off, but those switches just activate a relay which actually turns the thing on/off.  The relays are the sealed automotive type.  I bought a few extra.

I chased the coolant leak for a while and added an extra clamp on the coolant hose where the leak was located.

I made a modification to the swivel seat mechanism that allowed it to slide forward & back once again.

The mooring cover snaps were easy to fix. . . there were about 15 snaps that needed replacement.

The fresh water tank leak turned out to be a cracked strainer bowl. . . probably a result of insufficient winterization.

I plan to convert the trim senders to an electro-mechanical type, since the standard (digital) senders don’t last very long under water.

Speaking of winterization, the CY 338 has engines with full closed cooling, just like my Formula 330, so winterization was about the same as before.  One additional thing was the Air Conditioning unit, which also needed to be winterized.

In-Season Maintenance . . .

During the 2022 boating season there were a few surprises. 

Low Voltage - The starboard engine was complaining about low voltage.  See the page on Hi-Tech Engines for details

Ceiling Panel - A piece of the cabin ceiling kept falling down while navigating choppy waters.  A few screws along the panel solved the problem.

Slippery stairs - A few areas of non-skid were needed for boarding along the Port side and for the steps going into the cabin, as we had a few wipe-outs.  This was an easy fix with some non-skid tape.

It took a while to figure out the electrical power systems on the boat.  There are 7 (seven) batteries in total . . . 4 for the power inverter, 1 for each engine (2) and one for accessories.  Although the inverter was confusing at first, having 120VAC power on the boat while at the mooring comes in handy for things like re-charging the hand-held vacuum cleaner, and other items that run on regular house current.

Since the battery amperage is about 10X in converting 12 VDC to 120 VAC, I don’t use the inverter all that much.  When I tested the air conditioning during the summer, the current draw from the batteries was 40 amps!!!

To keep everything charged while the boat is moored, I added a solar charging system.  See the page on solar charger for details.

I also wanted to get a coating (or 2) of ceramic wax on the gelcoat to keep it looking new.

Joystick Control - The joystick docking control works OK, but often I find that the boat wants to go backward more than it wants to rotate.  After some diagnostic work, it looks like the may be a delayed shifting issue on the port outdrive, as the issue only seems to happen when the port drive needs to be in forward during the maneuver.  Opposite movements work fine.